Aug 27 10 3:05 PM

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There are PLENTY of threads, and reasons to do some of these modifications, but I figured I’d indulge some of you with the gory details:


[Crazy_Old_Prospector's_Voice] “D’ere’s Gold in dem dar valve bodies!” [/voice]

This is what happens when you experience a “servo failure” and it shows up as the infamous “2-3 flare”. One thing I noticed REAL quick is that the transmission is very picky about getting a constant supply of warm, clean fluid.

Since the warranty is days away from running out, I decided to do some modifications to make fluid changes easier, keep the fluid from overheating, and pull out some of the “nasties”.

We know from specs that the trans filter is little more than a screen that stops 120+ micron pieces, and oil filters can stop 10-20 micron. Some sources state that a piece of debris 30 microns in size can jam a solenoid.

***If you have a stock valve body, the oil ONLY flows when the fluid temp is over 150*f leaving the torque convertor (according to Sonnax), so during initial start up and during cold weather operation, an external filter will be cleaning less than half the time.

- See below for the thermostat bypass mod and external thermostat , this will allow for "Full-Flow" filtering. If you have the Sonnax mods, you get increased cooler flow at idle (cold and warm), but the Superior kit bypasses this T-Stat.

Mazda Service Bulletin 05-014/06 states:
Automatic Transmission (A/T) oil cooler/lines must be power flushed completely before an overhauled or
replacement A/T is installed. One of the causes of repeat A/T failures is an internal automatic transmission fluid
(ATF) restriction at the inlet side of the oil cooler. This restriction is usually caused by an ackrispy cremeulation of metal
particles and debris (from a previous A/T failure) on the internal mesh type baffle of the oil cooler. Power flushing
will remove the restriction by back flushing the cooler/lines followed by forward flushing. This will in turn
ensure full ATF flow for the transmission when it is operating.

Ford Service Tips 00-23-10; says it best:
Contamination from prior transmission concerns or excess wear may be trapped in the transmission fluid cooling system. This debris must be removed by properly cleaning the transmission cooling system. After cleaning, some contamination may still remain. The remaining contamination may be reintroduced into the fluid cooling system of a repaired/replaced transmission causing premature or repeat failures.

Now, there are a hundred theories as to where and how to install the external filter, but let me make some points first:
If your transmission is dirty or has “grenaded” in the past, your lines, radiator and external cooler are contaminated - the end. If you do not replace these parts, there is a chance that contaminants will cause the very same issue. “But, what about power flushing?” I hear some of you ask… well, assuming it was done correctly (if at all), you still have an issue because most external coolers and some radiator heat exchangers are stacked plate coolers; meaning 100% not flushable. Yeah, not flushable.

Again, Ford Service Tips 00-23-10:

The plates are parallel to each other ( |=| )and not in a series ( |_| ), so if one plate is clogged, the fluid has an alternate path - GREAT for cooling and fault recovery, HORRIBLE for reuse after a failure (despite what the bulletin may suggest).

Also, if you have new parts, they will be empty, and the system full of air. Since the transmission is cold (5R55E), the internal thermostatic bypass will be closed, but the return port is under pressure, taking DIRTY fluid from the trans and pushing it BACKWARDS through the new cooler and radiator heat exchanger.
- Anyone that has done the cooler line method of the transmission flush will tell you that fluid flows from both hoses when the engine is running.
Once the thermostatic bypass opens, it will run the fluid through the normal cooling loop. So, if you thought you could install a filter BEFORE the new radiator/cooler to keep them clean, it won’t happen, but adding the filter first (before the coolers) could protect the new radiator/cooler after the trans has been replaced.

Now, if you don’t want to replace the radiator, lines and external cooler, you can install an external filter AFTER the last cooler, and before the transmission return line. This will make sure any particles dislodged from “upstream” will not find their way back to the transmission. The filter mount is CLEARLY marked with an input and output (or arrows) to show the direction of flow, and this is critical because the filter has a backflow valve to prevent reverse flow past the filter. Should you get it backwards, fluid will not pass through the coolers OR the filter.

Remember, this will clean the fluid headed to the pan, but can not do anything about damage in the "first pass"; from the point of origin to the external or internal filter. It will keep this junk from going through the transmission a second time though.

Parts List:
This will vary, depending on your needs/wants. Most folks can get away with just adding the external filter kit using 3/8" barb fittings:


I chose the PermaCool 1701 Filter Mount based on the ½” NPT input/output, the ¾"-16 filter and the left hand input/output. I have an external cooler (different topic) that is also ½” NPT and I want standardized connections for everything to avoid confusion. Your needs will dictate your choice… "Made in USA" is a plus.


This is a temporary install using the existing plumbing to test the mount/position. The mount is made from aluminum diamond tread using the existing holes. I bent it using a homemade pan-brake (angle iron clamped to the work bench and a rubber mallet).

The normal fluid path is: Transmission > Radiator Heat Exchanger (Enter top, Exit bottom) > External Transmission Cooler > Transmission

This is something that you will have to verify on your end - there is no telling what has happened since your beloved ST has rolled off the assembly line!

The External Trans cooler is normally connected to the trans return line with 3/8" hose, pushed over and worm-gear clamped to the 3/8" tubing. You can use new hose to connect the return line to the filter output, then route the cooler output to the filter input using barbed fittings, 3/8" high temp hose and worm-gear clamps, or get stupid (like I am) and use -6 AN nylon braided hose, -6 AN fittings and 3/8" tubing to -6 AN adapters. Your choice, the options are limited only by your wallet. :grin:

Once routed, the mount should be bolted to something secure, and preferably so that the filter is vertical - to make for easier/less messy filter changes. Filter choice is based on a couple factors; the filter mount, available room and personal preference. Don't skimp, this requires a quality filter that can handle temps and pressure without leaking. I chose the K&N for starters. Make sure you add a quart of the proper fluid to the filter before spinning it on!

Start it up, check for leaks, check fluid level on dipstick, and test drive.
Over the next couple days, check for leaks and steady fluid levels to be sure nothing has changed.

Related Mods:
External Transmission Cooler
Upgraded/replaced hoses/clamps
Use AN fittings/hose
(See below)

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#1 [url]

Aug 28 10 12:12 AM

5R55E Fluid Cooling; Methods and Madness

Everything starts and ends with the transmission pan. This post can also be used for routine maintenance.

This is where the fluid is stored, measured and serves as the sump for the pump. On start up, the engine turns the flexplate, torque convertor and the snout of the TC turns the transmission pump. The suction side of the pump is connected to the transmission filter (via the valve body), and the filter is immersed in ATF in the pan.

If you have a two wheel drive, you have a shallow pan and filter, if you have the 4x4, there is a deep sump and filter which adds a ½ quart of fluid. This also has an anti-slosh function to handle fluid movement from angles, and possibly higher “G” forces!

Fluid change (just from the pan/filter - 3 or 4 qts)
Filter change

Parts List:
This leads us to our first modification - the 4x4 pan and filter on the 4x2. -You MUST use these as a matched set, as a 4x2 filter in a 4x4 pan could cause a starvation condition. Not good.
-Also, there are aftermarket drain plugs that can be installed in either pan (4x4 being the best) to make fluid swaps and filter changes FAR easier.
-If you are using the PML (or any cast aluminum pan), take 2 - M8x1.25-60mm bolts, cut the heads off them. Then taper the ends. I also cut a screwdriver slot in the end for ease of removal. These were used to align the gasket/pan and cut install/reinstall times by close to 30 minutes!

Next we have the Big Daddy:
This is the sump side with anti-slosh baffles (and the ever important "Made in USA" stamp).

This is the view from underneath - begging to be black powder coated with “natural” cooling fins… Mmmmmm….

And this is one of the more important features: the magnetic drain plug and auxiliary boss - ready to be drilled and tapped for your hearts desire.

The pan adds an additional 3 quarts of fluid, that takes the 4x4 from almost 10.5Qts to 13.5Qts, not counting the 1Qt filter, larger cooler and added hose. I'm looking at 15Qts of AMSOIL Synthetic MerconV - there goes a paycheck! :doh:

The "Bag-O’-Parts" includes all new hardware, the magnetic drain plug and copper crush washer.
I plan on a few modifications of my own:
An adhesive strip of magnets near the drain to catch more "gunk", and flat sanding the entire pan to ensure it is leak-free. I'm also looking in to self-locking hardware to avoid leaks.

You want to make sure you use a NEW Ford Transmission Pan gasket - with the torque spacers to ensure a tight, leak-free install (you don’t want ATF dripping all over your fresh powder coating!). And you want a 4x4 filter (regardless of you configuration) to finish this off.

Keep the next 3 pictures in mind - this is a common theme in most transmission mods!

Safety first:
Negative battery terminal disconnected - there are electronics in the pan!

Jack and jack stands - I leave the jack under for added safety and if you leave a slight gap between the jack and the frame, you can see if there is any movement/shifting. I also leave the wheels on, with the parking brake, 4x4 blocked rear, etc. The floor is covered with 2mil plastic that is taped to the freshly swept floor. It's gonna get messy!

The factory pan is held on by 18 - 13mm bolts and you should loosen them starting at the lowest point, once it starts draining, it is going to rain ATF!

Old pan - this is the 4x4 "deep sump" for comparison. The bulge in the center is the difference - the small area just to the side of the round sump is the perfect spot for the drain plug - should you decide to keep the stock pan.

Remove the filter (one 10mm or 8mm bolt) and you get another pint of fluid dropping.

With the pan dropped (and finally empty), you can see the magnetic strip to collect ferrous crud. If you look at the gasket, you'll notice the aluminum "pucks" on either side of each bolt hole, to distribute the torque load and keep the gasket from squishing out when torqued - these MAY wind up in the pan, don't be alarmed. You should be alarmed if you find debris, like those circled here...

This is what the Valve Body looks like, without bolts or the filter. This is a remanufactured unit from Central Valve Body (CVB) and it includes all the upgrades, with the latest 5R55E updates and is fully tested. I'm sure this will find its way back in to the tranny

I HIGHLY recommend retorquing the valve body as per Ford Specs.
Install the new 4x4 filter (Ford or Fram Microfelt Transmission Filter).
Install the new pan and tighten to 110 in/lbs of torque - NOT ft/lbs using the supplied hardware and torque the drain plug to 240 in/lbs (20 ft/lbs). The pan is larger and heavier than stock, so it takes some wrestling to get it in place and get a couple bolts started. And, it is a metric Allen, so be prepared to match the drive size to match your in/lb torque wrench.


Click these to open in new tabs for side-by-side view: Old vs. New

Fill with the proper ATF.
If this is a routine maintenance issue, you will only need 3-4 quarts to return to the "cross hatch" area on the dipstick with the engine running, in park and the fluid warm.

My procedure works well: Add until the dipstick shows fluid in the crosshatch, start engine and cycle the selector from P to D to R. Then go from R to D a couple times, and check fluid level again. Top off if needed. Then test drive for 20 minutes or so to warm up the fluid, then check for leaks.

>3 Quarts of fluid added, >6*f temperature drop, fluid takes longer to heat up, and as an added bonus, the fluid stays warm longer after a run.

Related Mods:
Gauges: I will not be using the boss in the pan for a temperature sensor, I already have a transmission pan temperature sensor, actually we ALL do. It is a thermistor built in to the EPC solenoid harness. This reports transmission pan fluid temps to the ECU for shifting information. I’ll be data logging this information and using the ScanGaugeII or DashScan to display that data. I will be using a gauge (with data logging output) to monitor the fluid temps from the pressure test port - just to see what the highest temperatures are.
Valve Body: I can only recommend CVB, having dealt with them and tested the product - top notch.
Fluid: This is a good time to consider switching to a high quality synthetic ATF (Mercon V for the 5R55E).
Thermostat bypass: part of the Superior Transmission valve body kit - not installed by CVB - good idea if you are using an external filter in the factory system as it will increase flow to the external filter/cooler during low temps/warm up. Not needed for my situation (Sonnax Mods do a better job).

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#2 [url]

Aug 28 10 11:59 AM

5R55E Fluid Cooling; More Madness...

Many of you don't have an external cooler, those of you that do, have a broken or crappy one - like mine...

Lower mount is broken and cooler is "flopping in the breeze". Each of the 4 lower rivets was heavily correded and snapped. The "fluffy" white substance on the base of the cooler is corrosion.

*Note the 12 stacked plates and radiator style fins.

We know that the Transfluid absorbs and transfers heat from friction out of the transmission to be cooled. So, Ford (and most other manufacturers) decided to place a tube cooler in the radiator for two purposes:
Heat the fluid to speed warm-up to operating temperatures.
Keep trans temps under control when loads are at 0MPH (Rocking vehicle in snow/sand/mud).
Cool the fluid once the trans temperature passes the coolant temperature.

Since using a fluid to fluid heat exchanger is the most efficient method, this works like a champ - except when the single pass through a 12" tube cooler (i.e.: the Explorer Sport Trac w/ 5R55E) isn't enough to cool your fluid; like when towing, off-roading or high speed driving (70mph+). This makes it tough to keep the ATF below the magical 240* mark; when varnish starts to form and volatile compounds evaporate from the fluid (bad things happen). Worse yet, when the transfluid is TOO cool (below 180*) the moisture in the fluid doesn't go away and acids/gunk build up. Fortunately, we (5R55E owners) have a thermostatic bypass built in to the valve body - this speeds up warm-ups and won't let the fluid "over cool".

OK, so, GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is the ABSOLUTE maximum your vehicle, contents and towed load tongue weight can be, and your GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) should never exceed the GVWR - or "Rating" - Easy, right?

Weights: (According to Ford)
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) 5,840lbs
The published curb weight is 4,350lbs (no driver/"stuff"/all fuids with a full tank of gas) - mine is 4,580 lbs - I'm not sure what that extra 230lbs is though - tires I bet.
Gross Trailer Weight Braked is 5,079lbs - total trailer weight w/ brakes
Maximum Payload is 1,490lbs

Math warning:
So, GVWR - Curb Weight = maximum payload
or: 5,840 - 4,350 = 1,490lbs - same as above - Bingo!
This can be 1,000lbs of people and gear and 490lbs trailer tongue weight, or any mix of the three. Got it?

Parts List:
No External Cooler:
You should use a minimum of GVWR x 2 (or 12,000GVW cooler) to be used WITH the radiator cooler. The Factory cooler is 10"x7"x3/4" (approx 14,000GVW), not bad. That being said - I would not use less than a 20,000GVW cooler for any kind of towing.

Factory External Cooler:
Add a cooler: Again, your choices may vary, however, you want a cooler that is as large as the existing cooler to increase cooling capacity. Place it inline with the existing cooler (in series) and mount it securely.
Replace the factory cooler: Now, there are some of us that don't like the factory cooler (or it got torn from the mounts off-roading). If you are replacing the factory cooler - get one 2 x the GVW rating of the factory cooler, preferably 1.5" thick. So, I would recommend at least 20,000GVW if you are REPLACING the factory cooler with a single cooler and want an upgrade.

I chose the B&M SuperCooler 70266:

Plenty of surface area: 11"x8"x1-1/2"

*Note the 36 stacked plates and NO radiator style fins. This is rated to survive direct rock hits, unlike the old one.

"LONG" Hecho en Mexico? Oh well, B&M is a stand up company, I'm sure it'll be fine. Besides, LONG is a good name in coolers.

Make sure you have plenty of room and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations - especially if there is off-roading or racing involved. As the vehicle is torqued in different directions, a hard mounted cooler can literally be ripped from the mounts or broken (Yeah, been there...).
You will see some coolers that are hard mounted on one end, and zip-tied on the other. This is actually the preferred method of some manufacturers as it allows for movement without damage.

Here it is, on the passenger side, using the radiator brace center post "U" channel and a piece of hose cut lengthwise to use as an isolator between the cooler end and the sheetmetal. It is zip tied to the center post (as per recommendations). The left side is being mapped with a piece of cardboard (backer from cooler packaging). I am using existing holes and trying to not obstruct airflow with mounts.

Existing holes were opened up from #14 self taping screws to 5/16" to accommodate the new stainless bolts, washers and Nyloc nuts. The aluminum diamond plate is notched on the two ends and in the center for alignment and stability. Having the plate up front is more difficult, but the end result looks far cleaner.

Once the weather dries up, I'll be removing everything, sanding, priming and painting the bolt holes to ward off rust.

:mad: Here we go...
This topic alone could be it's own forum - but I'll try to make it simple.
Because you have the 5R55E transmission with the internal thermostatic bypass, we are going to mount the cooler in front of the radiator, off to one side, in an area exposed to good air flow. It will be AFTER the radiator cooler and before the filter (if equipped). If the outside temperatures drop below freezing, the fluid in the pan will eventually drop below 160* and bypass the external cooling loop.
No muss, no fuss.

Related Mods:
External Transmission Filter (above)
Upgraded/replaced hoses/clamps
Vibration mounts
Use AN fittings/hose
Electric fan (no clearance or horizontal mounting)
Thermostatic switch to turn on small, cooler mounted fan, or the main cooling electric fan.
(See below)

Vibration mounts (not used) and -6 AN inline thermostatic switch - on at 180* - mounted to the output of the cooler, this will turn the main cooling electric fan on to pull air across the external trans cooler (and radiator, of course).

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#3 [url]

Aug 28 10 12:00 PM

5R55E Fluid Cooling; the very basics...

Ford lists the fluid "service interval" for the 5R55E as "sealed for life" - we know that many transmissions are failing between 50 and 70K miles with bad EPC/solenoids or servo issues, so that gives us an idea of the "life" of the transmission. I recommend following the "severe service" schedule and change the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles. While I'm not a big fan of commercial "transmission flushes", there is something you can do at home. If you drop the pan, change the filter and add an external filter, you have swapped out over 40% of the fluid, 65% if the valve body is dropped.

Parts List:
AMSOIL ATF - Fully synthetic Mercon V compatible fluid and SeaFoam "Trans Tune" (picture shows the Motor Treatment , but they do make a version for the transmission). The SeaFoam did a good job of freeing up a sticky solenoid - this might be a great idea to do before swapping the fluid or when changing the internal filter.

Um, through the funnel you put on the dipstick tube.

Related Mods:
Regular maintenance
Band adjustment
Deep sump pan installation

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#4 [url]

Aug 28 10 6:06 PM

5R55E Fluid Cooling; hose upgrades...

Well, not so much theory as an observation - factory hoses suck and only last so long before they begin to crack, leak or degrade. AN hose/ends are far superior, less likely to leak and are impervious to vibration/brush hits. My hoses were 5 years old and already getting hard.

Parts List:
6 feet of nylon braided high temperature/pressure hose
Various -6 AN hose connections
Various -6 AN to 1/2" NPT adapters
-6 AN end wrench

Not much different from regular hose, but it is a bit more complicated.

T-Stat with -6AN 37* flared inputs - More "Made in USA" goodness!

T-Stat with -6AN 90* hose ends out to cooler. See vibration mounts and bracket?

Bottom view...

Looking up towards cooler.

Related Mods:
External filter installation
External cooler installation[img][/img]

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#5 [url]

Aug 28 10 8:36 PM

5R55E Fluid Cooling; E-Fan? Yeah, that too...

Yeah, this one is a stretch as a transmission cooling mod, but humor me.
As mentioned above, I'm using a Derale inline thermostatic switch on the output of the external transmission cooler. The leads are connected to a polarity changing relay, to allow the application of a ground to change to a positive 12v. That +12v is going to be used to trigger the manual switched input of the E-Fan. So, when the output of the transmission cooler is over 180*, it turns the E-Fan on until the cooler output drops below 165*. I'll monitor this to see if it is turning on too late, in which case it will be moved to the inlet of the external cooler.

It also turns on when it detects the adjustable radiator temperature, when the AC compressor comes on or when a manual switch is activated - with or without the engine running.

Parts List:
ProForm Mustang fan kit

Remove mechanical fan and shroud
Wire E-Fan using minimum of 8ga wire and a circuit breaker instead of a fuse.
Wire relay to alter input on manual switch connection to allow for different triggers.

Edit: I did not use the E-Fan, I've decided to test a flexible mechanical fan insteady for increased reliability and less weight. The E-Fan was too thick and left VERY little room when using the thicker radiator core.

Related Mods:
No direct mods

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#7 [url]

Aug 29 10 10:41 AM

All inbound - the ST is still in the shop getting the transmission rebuilt. Each post above will get install pix added later this week with some before/during/after action and - if possible datalogged results.

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#8 [url]

Aug 29 10 6:03 PM

New Jersey Forest Fire Service’s answer to high Automatic Transmission Temps - They are adding a 26,000GVW cooler (mine's a 20,500GVW). While their tube cooler is flushable, a stacked plate cooler is about 30% more efficient then a tube cooler. They added this to the factory external cooler on a vehicle with twice our GVWR, I'm still probably cooling just as well as they are, without the added cost.

Doing this causes the ATF to circulate through the coolers at engine startup. This delays the heat up of the ATF. However, no measurements were taken to verify how much gain this might add. In cold weather, the fluid may stay cold enough to cause sluggish shifting for a while.

While I'm not a big fan of eliminating the cooler bypass (they run an external bypass, ours is internal), they are subjecting their rigs to MUCH higher start up loads, and are operating in much tougher conditions. I'm going to bypass the internal thermostat and run an external one because if the internal T-Stat is keeping the fluid in the trans, the external filter is doing NOTHING. This will change the order of parts and flow, but it is something to consider in your layout!

Because the external cooler is almost useless at low speeds/stuck in snow, I'll leave the cooler in the radiator, and then go to the external, and have the 180* T-Stat controlled fan as a back up. If I see any high temps, I'll step up to the next higher SuperCooler; rated at 29,200GVW (not likely).

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#9 [url]

Aug 30 10 5:07 PM

This is my current plan:


Edit: NOT used, as the Radiator AND Cooler were replaced, so I want the filter BEFORE the new parts to keep them clean.

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#10 [url]

Aug 31 10 2:18 PM

Dealer called, the ST is ready! This weekend is going to be a blur... :scratch:

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#11 [url]

Sep 1 10 12:15 AM

"P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect ratio"
PPT Test SSB Solenoid Stuck / Found internal bands burnt, replaced. Overhaul valve body/flush all lines, reassemble, test drive OK.

Parts: (Fixed with CVB)
F77Z-7G484-AB Ford 4R/5R Shift Solenoid
1L5Z-7Z490-CA 2001/2002 4.0L-SOHC - Plate - Valve Body Separator
F5TZ-7A191-A Gasket Assy Trans Oil Pan
D4ZZ-7086-B Gasket, Extension Housing (3)
E9TZ-7086-A Gasket, Trans/transfer case
4L5Z-7D034-AA Band Assy, Intermediate & Overdrive (2)
F77Z-7D021-ZA Piston, Interm Servo (2.317”ID Cover # ZC)
F77Z-7D021-A2A Piston, Overdrive Servo (2.100”ID Cover # AA/AB)
F5TZ-7A136-A Gaskets, Trans Oil pump
F77Z-7A248-AA Seal, Front, No Flange, Rubber Coated, Metal Clad
3L2Z-7L323-AA Seal, Ring Front Stator, Solid
W701429-S300 Bolt, Pump (
379299 S2 Nut, Hex, Converter to flexplate (4)
W83 FT112 Screen, Motorcraft transmission filter
XT 5 DM Fluid, Mercon V (12)
E6TZ-7D040-A Oring, Interm Servo Cover (2)
D4ZZ-7L173-A Gasket, Reverse Servo Cover (3)
9L2Z-7G383-A Solenoid, EPC (2 Red Screens) Old part XL2Z-7G383-AA
E825100-S102 Nut, Hex [Unable to locate] (2)
FT 134 Screen Assy, Screen, Motorcraft transmission filter
E804595 S437 Screw [Unknown] (

Why were two filters order? Not sure. I'm guessing one was used for assembly and replaced after testing?

Looks like the New EPC is going in to the CVB unit, then adding the thermostat bypass.

At the end of the parts list, there was "FP - 9L2Z-7G383-A" My guess is that the EPC was diagnosed as the Failed Part - If so, this would support my hypothesis that the failed EPC caused all the issues, and lead to the 2-3 flare, servo and burnt bands.

Parts total was $491.89, no labor was listed - shame.
12 mile test drive
$108.20 out of pocket. Not a bad deal.

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#12 [url]

Sep 3 10 12:47 PM

This is another plan:


Since everything is new or backflushed, I want to filter the warmest oil possible for flow reasons, and to keep the components from getting any "gunk" in them, this is the way to go.

If you are reusing old, "unclean" parts, see above.
Obviously this only applies if you are using the thermostatic bypass plug from Superior.

Edit: The final plan was as above, but the TStat was located AFTER the radiator cooler to limit flow to the EXTERNAL OTA cooler. This promotes faster warm ups and all but eliminates cold weather issues.

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#13 [url]

Feb 15 11 2:38 PM

Thanks for the great write up!

I am replacing a blown 5r55e tranny that went bad 1 year/6k miles after install. As an "insurance policy", this time around, I ordered new cooler and external oil filter along with the new tranny.

Can you show which of the oil ports on the transmission is "IN" and "OUT". I can't figure it out by staring at the tranny and I can't find it in the shop manual.

PS: Perma-Cool is out of business and oil mount part is no longer available, but this Derale part looks like an acceptable substitute : 25750 Remote 3/8" NPT Single Left Port Mount Only.

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#14 [url]

Mar 24 11 12:25 PM

I can't show the ports on the trans, but Ford sends the fluid IN on the upper port of the radiator, and OUT from the lower port. That should get you where you need to go.

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#15 [url]

Mar 24 11 1:50 PM

So, some assembly tips first:

These are push pins available from the "Help" section of your local auto parts supplier.


EVERY SINGLE connection was leaking, except the 1/2" NPT at the Cooler, and 1/2" NPT at the TStat. This shows the only remaining issues, the 1/2" NPT at the Filter. These were Teflon taped first, then Teflon Pipe Doped later (on a reinstall).


Cooler is Weep-Free


Another view...


TStat is looking better too...

I'll post an image of the FlareTite inserts I used.

2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin, 4.0L SOHC, 5R55E, 4.10 open, 265/70R17's, Volant Intake, X3 tuner.

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#16 [url]

Sep 16 11 6:50 AM

Hello Fred,
I have few questions. Since the lines from tranny are aluminum, did u cut any of the aluminum ones to be able to place the external filter before radiator? since all lines that goes from tranny and radiator are aluminim, i wonder where my external filter should be added in.


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